Park: Congratulations on your big move! Are you excited to go back? How long has it been since you were last in Korea?

Ko: Yes, I’m definitely excited to go back. It’s been almost four years since I came to New York. It’s such a huge opportunity for me to be able to open a restaurant with a major company.

Park: Can you tell me about the new restaurant you’ll be leading?

Ko: Yes, I’ll be head chef at a restaurant in Korea with a European vibe and an Arabic concept. It’s rooted in Korean cuisine but incorporates techniques from French, Italian, and Asian cooking… We like to showcase worldwide cuisine. 

Park: But will you miss New York?

Ko: Oh, absolutely. I’ll definitely miss New York. I love it here.

Park: So when you’re back in Korea, who’s in charge of the kitchen at home — you, or your private-chef mother?

Ko: At home? Definitely my mom. She’s the head chef there.

Ko: [I cook for them] only during family gatherings, like Thanksgiving. Cooking for my mom always makes me nervous, even though she’s not a professional chef. She has a stronger voice, so I have to follow her lead — even when I think my food tastes better! (laughs)

Park: I know you left Korea to master Italian cuisine. Interestingly, when I’m back in Korea, I always crave Italian food. What do you crave the most when you’re in Korea, and when you’re in New York?

Ko: In Korea, I craved tacos the most — they’re just on another level here compared to Korea. In New York, I crave seafood the most. Actually, the first thing I’m going to eat when I go back to Korea is seafood.

Park: How did attending culinary school in Canada shape your path in New York?

Ko: Culinary school can be controversial in this industry. Some think it’s a waste of time and money. I both agree and disagree. For me, I got a lot out of it because I was curious, worked hard, and built strong connections with chefs. Others didn’t take it as seriously. So I think it depends on how you use the opportunity.

Park: Why did you choose culinary school in Canada rather than Korea or elsewhere?

Ko: At first, I looked into Europe, but the schools there didn’t offer degrees. I also considered Australia and CIA (Culinary Institute of America), but CIA was way too expensive. Then I found the school in Toronto, which was about a quarter of the price of CIA. It was still expensive, but much more doable.

Park: Was that your parents’ idea for you to look beyond Korea?

Ko: Yes. They wanted me to think big, not be stuck in Korea.

Park: When you first arrived in the States, what was the hardest adjustment, both personally and professionally?

Ko: The cultural differences were tough. Every kitchen environment is unique, and I had to adjust to that. But personally, being alone in a new country with no family or friends was the hardest part.

Park: How does Korean cooking culture compare to Canadian and American cultures?

Ko: In Canada, I was surprised to see a lot of wild game — bear, elk, things you’d never see in the US. Canada and the US share similarities, but the US has a more diverse food culture overall. Korea, by contrast, uses a lot of fermentation and is very seasonally driven. That’s one of its unique characteristics.

Park: Do you feel pressure to represent Korean cuisine, especially to non-Korean diners?

Ko: Yes, definitely. Since I work at a Korean restaurant in New York, I feel a responsibility to showcase Korean cuisine. But I see it as a positive challenge.

Park: How do you balance Korean cooking techniques with New York diners’ expectations?

Ko: At first, I tried to adapt to American palates. But now, I focus more on Korean flavors. There’s a saying in Korea: “What’s Korean is most universal.” So I try to present authentic Korean flavors instead of diluting them.

Park: That’s powerful. So, how do you define Korean cooking techniques?

Ko: Fermentation is key. Also, Korea doesn’t rely heavily on ovens. And there are many varieties of soy sauce with unique uses. Those, I think, are some of the most distinct techniques.

Park: Has working in New York changed what “authentic” Korean food means to you?

Ko: Yes. Authentic food evolves. Some dishes we now call traditional, like certain chicken dishes, didn’t exist 100 years ago. Food culture is always changing, and I think it will continue to evolve.

Park: Do you feel like you’re translating Korean culture for your diners?

Ko: In a way, yes. For example, when we serve galbi, we explain the marinade and cooking techniques so customers can understand. That’s part of our role — to educate as well as feed.

Park: What kind of experience do you want diners to have when eating your food?

Ko: I want them to feel like they’re having an experience, not just a meal. Like going to a concert — food is the medium that enhances the connection between people.

Park: When creating new menus, what’s most important to you?

Ko: Seasonality. I start with what’s in season, then build around it with proteins and complementary ingredients. I always try to include a Korean touch, while keeping the flow of service practical.

Park: Do you aim more to honor tradition or push toward the future?

Ko: Both, but I lean toward pushing forward. Diners always crave new experiences, so while I respect tradition, I also want to innovate.

Park: Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

Ko: Still cooking — hopefully with my own restaurant. I’d like to be an owner in the US. Korea’s market is smaller and more complicated, but the US has more opportunities. Whatever cuisine I do, pasta will definitely be on the menu.

credit: @atoboynyc